Material Selection
For the axe or celt:
Choose a fine-grained basalt, diorite, granite, quartzite, or other granular material that looks like it has enough strength to hold together under the stress of chopping wood. Usually, the finer the grain size, the stronger the tool. Remember also, that small grain size means more work but the tools will last longer.
Test the stone by hitting it with a hammerstone or rock hammer. If the stone breaks easily, discard it. You'll want tough stone.
Find a stone that looks something like an axe or celt already. This will greatly influence the amount of labor needed to make the tool. In ancient times, craftsmen might walk many creeks for many miles before finding the perfect rock. In modern society, we may only be able to get permission to walk .001 percent of the area to which they had access. I'd bet, while hunting and/or foraging, ancient ground stone tool makers kept their eyes open for material wherever they walked and were able to pick the "cream of the crop".
(Photos LK) Some close-ups
of the types of granite (sawn slabs) Larry uses.
(Photo LK) Basalt (one variety)
from the St. Francis Mountains, Missouri. Mississippians (and Larry) love this
material. It works well and seems to hold together well under the stress of the
manufacturing process.
Garden centers can stock many varieties of granites and/or basalts. They are a good source for raw materials and it's possible to find "axe-like" shapes in their collections.
Tools
Hammerstones
Larry suggests using chert/flint
hammerstones, since they are found on archaeological sites in his area, near St.
Louis, Mo. Start out with a chunk of chert/flint like this:
and, after a few hours, it will turn into this
.
Chert is almost the perfect tool. Even if the stone is struck with too much
force, the flint/chert (the point of least resistance) will fracture, preventing the full force from being
transmitted into the axe or celt. You will have much waste from the chert/flint
in the beginning but, as the chert/flint turns into a ball, the tiny protrusions
will remove the axe material more efficiently.
Other fine-grained hammers, like this
quartzite one, may be used.
For the non-traditionalists, some hardened steel tools may be used. Be careful not to hit too hard as they may break the stone.
Technique
The technique used is called pecking and grinding. The pecking is done by hitting the axe material with the chert/flint hammerstone, pulverizing the surface. This removes one grain at a time. It's very time consuming but produces good results. Larry prefers to work the stone wet, that is, he wets the immediate area he is working. He keeps a little water nearby and slightly moistens the area then pecks, with the hammerstone. The wet area shows him exactly where he is hitting because each peck removes a tiny speck of moisture, when hit.
Larry also soaks the axe material in water between work sessions.
Larry believes the Ancients found out that green stone could be shaped, when observing the greenstone hammerstones they used to flintknap. During flintknapping, portions of the hammerstones are removed over time. It shouldn't have taken very long for the ancient craftsman to notice that flint/chert can work granular materials and granular materials can work flint/chert. The 2 materials go hand-in-hand.
As you work, you will develop preferences for working. Sometimes, you may work on edges first, or flat surfaces, or circular areas, It doesn't seem to matter as long as it works for you. Larry has found that working small sections (about 1 inch squares) works best for him. It helps to remove material from the edges of areas worked before because it gives a place for the removed granules to go. Also, that's about as much area as you can work before the moisture dries out. You will find that the surface of most stones is harder to start. It's usually easier, once the surface is removed. Sawn slabs are difficult to start but, once the surface is removed, their workability is improved.
The pecking shapes the tool. Grooves are made with this simple technique, also. Smaller or more elongated flint hammers will allow you to get into the grooves more readily.
Warning: Patience and persistence are needed during the pecking process. Try working for an hour or two at a time and take breaks to allow your muscles to recuperate. The sound of persistent pecking can also irritate others. Just ask Larry's wife!
Grinding
Grinding is done by rubbing the stone on a sandstone slab. This produces the smoother surface on the piece and sharpens the bit. The grain size and hardness of the sandstone will determine how fast the finished product is sharpened. Larry also uses water with this process, placing one end of the sandstone slab in water and picking up a little water with each stroke of the tool. Care must be taken when sharpening as dragging the tool back to the top can knock small grains off the edge. This can be avoided by using finer grained slabs when near the bit.
Modern grinding stones, electric grinders, diamond wheels, sandpapers, etc can be used but care should be taken not to "hollow grind" the edges. The edges must be convex to keep their strength.
Good sandstone is hard to come by in a lot of areas. Garden centers are a good source for excellent sandstone because they usually carry sandstone stepping stones and landscape materials.